How to Clean the Shark Navigator Vacuum and Filters

The Shark Navigator Vacuum is an awesome addition to your house. It makes uses of the same “no loss of suction” technology as a Dyson but at a fraction of the price. But have you known what to do when your machine seems to loose it’s power? It’s time to clean your machine! And here is advice on how to How to Clean the Shark Navigator Vacuum and Filters


Tips: Click here to see how to choose the best shark vacuum

1. Signs of a Dirty Vacuum

Definitely, a dirty vacuum will be not as efficient as a clean one. Once the filters get blocked, it considerably reduces the suction power. You also need to ensure that the rotating brush on the bottom is clear of materials that become wrapped around it over time.

And here are some signs that your Shark Navigator needs to be cleaned:

  • It becomes loss of suction
  • It leaves dirt after the process
  • It makes different sounds when running
  • The vacuum remains an unpleasant odor

Once you find and feel any or all of the problems above, you need to clean your machine immediately. Only by this way, you can once again enjoy the benefits of a clean home.

2. Cleaning Process

2.1 The Rotating Brush Cleaning

The first thing you need to think of when it comes to cleaning your the Shark Navigator Vacuum is the rotating brush under the machine. And here is the process:

  • First of all, remember to unplug your machine!
  • Put it down on the floor. You should put a bag under in case of an unwanted mess.
  • Remove any material which has wrapped around the brush, such as string and hair.
  • As you find all of the debris cleared, your first step has been done.

2.2 Dirt Container and Plastic Filters Cleaning

The Shark Navigator is a bagless vacuum. The dirt that is picked up is kept in a removable plastic container for easy removal. And this is the area that does need cleaning, otherwise, the filter system will become blocked causing you to lose suction power.

  • Take out the dirt container and remove any dirt particles into the trash.
  • Unlock the container top and take out the filter system.
  • Remove dirty or dust particles out of the filter by softly tapping on the side of your trash can.
  • As long as all the loose dirt is made clean, you can start cleaning them with water. (Personally, I use plain tap water)
  • During the process of rinsing the plastic filter system, remember to keep spraying with water until the out water looks clean. Rinse the dirt container carefully.

Note: wait until it to dry completely. You may have to wait adequate drying time. You can lay all the parts out alone to dry. Once you find everything dry, put them back together.

2.3 HEPA Filter Cleaning

The HEPA filters are other parts that need to be cleaned regularly. Most vacuums include two sets of HEPA filters, so it is easy to clean them on a more regular basis since you will not have to wait for drying time when you want to use your vacuum.

  • Take out the HEPA filters. They are under your vacuum’s dirt container.
  • Soak them carefully by hand until they are clean.
  • Compress excess water from the filters and wait until them dry. It requires a longer time for it to dry then it does for plastic filters.
  • You can wait until these dry completely, or you can use the second set of HEPA filters if you want to begin vacuuming sooner. Personally, I often rotate between each set because alternating HEPA filters with each cleaning, you are making sure that the filters are drying completely before the next use.

Final Words

Once you have finished all of the cleaning steps above, it’s time to put them back together and start your vacuuming. You will notice a change in the suction power immediately from the start because all of the filters are clean and free of debris. In case there are any foul odors, they will be eliminated once you cleaned your HEPA filters.

Ok, now you can continue enjoying the “no loss of suction” technology and do effective vacuuming for a cleaner home!

How To Choose The Best Shark Vacuum?


As the world of shark vacuum is getting more and more diverse, choosing the best Shark vacuum cleaner for yourself is not as simple as walking in the park. Currently, there have been dozen  different models under the Shark brand which are all simply powerful, sleek appliances which claims to add delight to any homeowner. When it comes to choosing a good Shark vacuum, it is advisable to consider the following aspects first:

  • Bagged or bagless
  • Filtration systems
  • Portability
  • Accessories

Ok, let’s discover them in details now:

1.     Bagged or Bagless

When it comes to choosing a vacuum, it is essential that you should consider whether the specific space that you are going to clean is bagged or bagless. The good news is that in term of Shark, two of the most famous models, the Navigator and Rotator are all bagless. This means that dirt and debris collected will be kept in a removable bin, rather than in a bag which requires replacement. In the long run, this feature allows you to save money as it doesn’t require you to invest in extra bags for dirt disposal. On the flip side, the bagless cleaners require good filtration systems to protect optimal dirt collection.

2.     Filtration Systems

Ranked secondly, just after the factor whether the particular Shark vac is bagged or not is one whether the filtration system is available or not. Most Shark models come with HEPA filters of which mode of action is lauded thanks to its ability to remove small-sized particles of dust and dirt. And personally, I find this feature decisive, for one simple reason. I am allergic to dust and pet hair and I cannot bear the discharge of dust back into the air during vacuuming. I am using the Shark Navigator vacuum cleaner with HEPA filtration. And it is really a good choice to those who suffer from varied allergens.

3.     Portability

Shark vacuums are currently available in various designs: hand-held, upright and canister. When shopping for a vacuum cleaner, you had better outline all of your cleaning desires. For example, are you going to haul it up the stairs? Are there any far-to-reach corners that disturb your cleaning efforts? Depending on your requirements, you would prefer a portable vacuum cleaner. A lightweight Shark vacuum will be perfect for those who have to clean upstairs and those who need to clean for the sick and the elderly.

4.     Accessories

As long as you have determined the aforementioned features, it’s time to consider what accessories are necessary. Accessories help to make cleaning a breeze, and you can choose between those of indispensable or aesthetic. Some of the accessories which may come in handy are the turbo pet tools, flexible crevice cleaning tools, powered brushes and a bag big enough to keep them all.

The choice of accessories is largely depended on the cleaning needs at hand, and the budget as well. You of course do not want to spend all of your money on accessories, then cannot afford to maintain the vacuum cleaner.

Final Verdict

The Shark brand is highly appreciated for its valuable and advanced cleaning technology. While the models are various in features, you need to consider your cleaning requirement carefully to choose the best one for your home.

Advantages of Keurig Serving and Its Several Models for Home:

The very first thing is to check the right amount of thing for your comfort that is helpful for you. There is great place for kuerig coffee maker. You may also go for Keurig 2.0 review that will guide you and will help to know the importance of such coffee makers.

This is a good way to also save money along with other benefits as well. you must select the right coffee brewer to purchase for yourself. There is different technologies used that are helpful in buying right type of coffee maker. The process for using such type of machine is to press the right button and this will help you to start the machine accordingly. You may also select the right type of gourmet coffee in a K-cup container and this will be beneficial for you.


The main benefit is that it will help you to get the right taste and all the relevant benefits. You may find extra features and benefits with such type of Keurig coffee maker that will provide you with right type of benefits. This is the most convenient way to make right coffee for you.

keurig k45 review is also essential to be checked that are also helpful for getting the right type of benefits and will guide you to get the easy ways and tips for making coffee for good purpose. Select the model as per your need and that is right for you and easily fits for your home.


Size and shape:

The size and shape are accordingly and are helpful in its own way. You may prefer the right one for you that may guide you with the proper work and that will be helpful for utilizing at home. Check for the storage capacity that will guide you and is also beneficial for you. Keurig models are the best known for all its shape and are compact and cheap as well that people may use easily at their homes.

You may get benefit from all the models of keurig that has the best brand for the making of coffee and in this way you may get the good way of making coffee for yourself and for others.

Basic plane for Your Kitchen:

This is the most affordable brand one may easily purchase and utilize. You may use several different mugs of your choice that may guide you to get the right thing for yourself and are placed of different sizes and are less costly with easily accessibility and it also guides you to enjoy properly. Check for different reviews related to this model that may guide you about such parts and advantages related to them

Best choice is The Elite for placing a no frills, that is also used for single serve Keurig coffee maker in your home or you may say kitchen. It is great economy wise and is the best as well.

More ways and good Looking:

Search for better options that are essential and that are also beneficial for all the keurig models. You must select all the attractive features that are must to be present in such brand. Other option is also three brew size one that is good for using and is having capacity of 48 liters that is the reservoir for removing water. With such brands of keurig you can easily get right thing for you and for your home.

The Most beneficial thing:

Platinum Brewing System is the right one for you. You can rung up to the beneficial Platinum Brewing System, which provides you the widest variety of five dissimilar cup size options for the purpose of brewing. The Platinum added a total inventory of suitable facial appearance, as well as Auto On/Off, Digital alarm clock, modifiable Temperature Control and the “Set Your Favorite Cup Size” button as well.

You may also check for the larger one that is of 60 litres capacity and that will be easy for filling it again and again. You must also purchase that mug that is beneficial and that can easily comfort you in every sense and will guide you properly.

Sheet Vinyl Flooring (Part 3)

A Clean Sweep

Because it’s shiny and flexible, vinyl flooring telegraphs any bumps or ruts beneath it; the smallest splinter or the puniest pebble under the flooring will show on the surface. So fill the underlayment seams with floor patch, and after it’s fully dry (about 30 minutes), sand it smooth. Then sweep and vacuum the floor.

Roll It Out

If there’s space, unroll the flooring in the room. If not, you’ll have to do some rough cutting in a bigger area. But don’t try to cut the sheet to the exact size of the room-leave as much excess as you can. And do it on a clean floor so you don’t drag unwanted grit into the room. If the room has a wall with an outside comer (or base cabinets that form one) cut a rectangular section out of the flooring so that the sheet will fit around the corner and up against adjoining walls. Then, unroll the flooring from there.

If the room doesn’t have an outside corner, start against the longest straight wall or a row of base cabinets.

Be sure that the flooring is positioned so that the pattern will lay out properly. If your flooring has a pattern of lines, for example, and you want them to run parallel to a wall, adjust the sheet before you begin to cut inside comers and trim along walls. Once you’ve started slicing, it’s too late to reposition the flooring.

Traps and Troubles

  • Rolling up a sheet of vinyl face-in can damage the wear layer, so sheets must be rolled face-out for transportation and storage. Sometimes, like when you roll back the sheet to spread the adhesive, you have to roll it face-in. But roll it loosely and unroll it as soon as you can.
  • A common mistake when laying felt-backed vinyl is to tear the backing off when forcing it into comers. If you do this, just glue it to the facing with flooring adhesive.
  • After the floor is glued down, minor misplaced cuts left by a wandering knife or a wandering mind should be covered with seam sealer, a liquid that bonds vinyl and seals the surface. Use the type listed by the floor’s manufacturer.
  • Mistakes along walls that won’t be hidden when the baseboards are replaced can sometimes be covered by adding shoe molding to the base.
  • Bubbles will sometimes form under the vinyl after it’s been rolled. If the adhesive hasn’t begun to set, you should be able to work them out with a roller. If it has, puncture the bubbles with a needle, roll them down and put a drop of seam sealer over the hole.
  • Adding underlayment and a sheet of vinyl will raise your floor by a bit more than a quarter inch above adjoining floors. The resulting uneven thresholds should be covered with cap metal or a wooden cap designed for uneven thresholds.

Sheet vinyl and adhesives often contain VOCs (volatile organic compounds), which, according to some researchers, are to blame for a variety of illnesses. So open the windows, run a fan or two while laying the flooring and keep the room well-ventilated for a couple of days after the job’s done.

You can walk on the floor and move appliances back as soon as it’s laid. But keep furniture and heavy foot traffic off until the adhesive completely sets, usually in about 24 hours. In the case of a vital room like a kitchen, this may be a frustrating–but necessary–nuisance. On the other hand, it’s a good excuse to go out to dinner to celebrate a job well done. And it’s a small price to pay for a new, low-cost, low-maintenance, good-looking floor.

Sheet Vinyl Flooring (Part 2)

What You’ll Need

You’ll need a lot of tools for this project, but most of them are probably in your toolbox already:

  • utility knife and extra blades
  • tape measure
  • straightedge
  • pen or pencil. Caution: Ink may damage some types of flooring, so check the manufacturer’s instructions.
  • hammer and pry bar for removing and reinstaring moldings
  • handsaw for undercutting casings
  • trowel or wide putty knife for floor patch
  • some 100-grit sandpaper for smoothing the floor patch
  • drill and nail set for adding shoe molding
  • circular saw or jigsaw for cutting underlayment
  • notched trowel for spreading adhesive you can get one for about $3).

You’ll need to rent an underlayment stapler and mallet (about $17 per day, plus $1 for each clip of 60 staples you use). If your flooring is to be glued down just around the edges and seams, you’ll need only a hand-held roller (the kind used for wallpaper will cost about $5). If your entire floor needs to be glued, you’ll have to rent a 75- to 100-lb. floor roller as well (about $14 per day).

Tip: You won’t need a floor roller until late in the job, probably the second day. To save on rental fees, pick one up when you drop off the stapler.

Aside from the flooring itself, you’ll need to buy:

  1. underlayment (lauan plywood; about $14 for each 4×8, 1/4-in. sheet). Lauan is the most widely used underlayment, but other types of “underlayment-grade” plywood, hardboard, particle board, chipboard and even cement panels are available. The manufacturer of your flooring or the people who sold it to you can tell you which types of underlayment may be used with it.
  2. floor patch (about $5)
  3. flooring adhesive (about $5 to $15)
  4. seam sealer ($5 to $15, depending on the type you need)
  5. liquid latex (about $12 per gallon)
  6. shoe molding (about $4 for 8 ft.)
  7. threshold cap (about $3 for 3 ft. of metal or $7 for 3 ft. of wood).

Tip: For one-stop shopping, pick up all of these things at a home center. If you need thoroughly reliable advice as well as materials, do your shopping at a full-service flooring store.

Clear The Floor

You’ll have to move out all the furniture and yes, those clumsy appliances too (unless, of course, they’re built-in). Be sure to turn off appliances and gas lines before disconnecting them; an explosion will make your project much less successful.

Tip: If your kitchen has an island without built-in plumbing or electrical wiring, move it out if you can.

You may want to rent moving rollers or dollies (about $12 a day) to move appliances in and out. When moving them back in, put down strips of plywood to roll on. Many a magnificent flooring job has been ruined while putting the fridge back.

A Cover-Up

It’s best to cover your old floor with 1/4-in. underlayment instead of pulling it up. Older flooring may contain asbestos, which becomes dangerous when disturbed. And tearing out old flooring is like tearing out your hair–only less enjoyable.

  • First, carefully remove all baseboards with a pry bar. When the flooring is laid and you replace the baseboards, you’ll cover the edges of the sheet and hide any small mistakes you made while trimming the vinyl.
  • Next, undercut door casings by laying the blade of a handsaw on a scrap of underlayment and horizontally cutting off the bottom of the casing. This will allow you to slide both the underlayment and the vinyl under the casing, instead of trying to trim around it.

Cut out any loose areas along the seams of the old floor and fill the holes with floor patch. Most floor patch powders can be mixed with water, but use liquid latex instead of water because it won’t promote mold and mildew growth.

Tip: Don’t mix up more floor patch than you can use in about 15 minutes. This stuff hardens fast.

Before putting down the underlayment, measure the room and draw up a rough floor plan. Plan a layout that will use as many full sheets of underlayment as possible. This will leave you with less cutting and fewer seams to staple and fill. Stagger the seams in a brick-like pattern so that four corners never meet in one place.

One side of the underlayment will be smooth, but the other side may be full of holes and wide cracks. If you mistakenly put the rough side up, fill any holes or cracks with floor patch.

Use 7/8-in. chisel-point staples, which “fish hook” as they’re driven in, to fasten the underlayment (you’ll need about 360 staples for each 4×8 sheet of underlayment). Don’t be gentle when you drive them in with the underlayment stapler; they have to sink below the surface of the underlayment. Flatten any protruding staples with a hammer and fill the hammer marks with floor patch.

Sheet Vinyl Flooring (Part 1)

If you have beautiful floors, time to kill and money to bum this article probably isn’t for you. But if your floors leave something to be desired and you’d like to save some time and money, read on.

Since its introduction in the 1960s, sheet vinyl flooring has been the choice of folks who don’t to sweat over their floors-either caring for them or paying for them.

As ever, vinyl is perhaps the least costly stuff to put between your feet and the subfloor. But today’s improved materials and designs make vinyls tougher and more eye-pleasing than ever.

Making A Choice

A sheet vinyl floor will cost you between $5 and $40 per square yard, and as with most things, you get what you pay for. More expensive, higher quality vinyl generally has a thicker “wear layer,” which makes it tougher and longer lasting, and thicker backing, which makes it more sound absorbent and easier on the feet. The easiest way to judge the thickness of flooring is to simply look at it. If you want to be precise, a salesperson at a flooring store can look up exact measurements for both the wear layer and the backing.

The warranty a floor carries is another measure of quality. Any flooring you buy should be warrantied against manufacturing defects. A long-term warranty–5 to 10 years–tells you the manufacturer is confident in the product.

Tips: If your room is small, you may be able to get a high-quality floor at a low price by picking up a remnant, but your choice of patterns will be limited.

Lay or Pay?

Once you’ve chosen a pattern, you have to decide whether you want to lay it yourself or pay a pro $7 to $12 per square yard to do it. Minor preparation work, like filling small holes, is included in the cost of installation. But major work, such as putting down underlayment, will cost you extra (about $10 per square yard, materials included).

Tips: If you decide not to lay the flooring yourself, you can still save money by installing the underlayment yourself.

  • Laying sheet flooring isn’t especially difficult. If you have some experience with tools, you can probably do a first-rate job in one weekend. But you have to be as careful as a surgeon; one false move can leave a permanent scar on your floor.
  • Some sheet flooring is more DIY-friendly than others. Basically, there are two types of sheet vinyl: rotovinyl, made from sheets of vinyl only; and inlaid, which contains vinyl chips. Note well: The only thing an amateur should do with inlaid flooring is walk on it.
  • The other type, rotovinyl, comes with either felt or flexible backing. And both can be installed by DIYers. Felt-backed rotovinyl is fairly cooperative, but you have to be careful not to tear the felt off the facing. Flexible-backed rotovinyl–with brand names such as Dynaflex, Interflex, Perimiflex and others–was designed with DIYers in mind and is the most accommodating. It’s generally more expensive than felt-backed vinyl, but you won’t have to rent a floor roller or buy as much adhesive.

Tips: If you have squeaky floors, the best time to silence them is before you install new floor covering.

A Maze of Methods

Most felt-backed floors, such as the one we show here, must be glued down all over. Flexible-backed vinyl should be glued or stapled around the edges and at seams only. Different brands-and even different pattern designs-can require different adhesives. Seemingly small mistakes can lead to big headaches, so always follow the manufacturer’s instructions, right down to the size of notches in the trowel you use to spread the adhesive.

Tips: Most manufacturers offer thorough, specific directions to follow when installing their products. A flooring retailer can provide them.

Many home centers and flooring stores sell installation kits for under $20 that include a large paper template you tape together, lay in the room and cut to fit. You then lay the template on the flooring, cut around it, and presto, you have a perfectly tailored sheet of vinyl.

Tip: You can make your own template out of just about any type of paper; large sheets of thick paper work best.

Tip: Armstrong’s installation kit carries a guarantee. If you use it to lay one of their DIY floors, follow the enclosed directions precisely and still screw up, they’ll replace the floor-free.

The professional techniques we show here are usually faster than the template method. But if the room has a complex shape, or if your cutting and fitting skills are shaky, a template may be the way to go. No matter which route you choose, these pages will help you do it right.

First Class Wood Repairs (Part 2)

In Search Of Rot

Before you do anything, determine whether the damage was caused by accidents and normal wear and tear, or rot. Rot can be distinguished from other kinds of damage by its dark, charred appearance and its soft, spongy feel, but it’s tricky stuff. Rot may be eating away at wood under a camouflage of peeling or rippling paint. Or it may masquerade as a small, harmless depression in the wood while it destroys the entire piece from the inside out If you find a little rot, probe the area with a narrow screwdriver or chisel. Chances are you’ll find more.

Filling rotted wood presents some special problems. The wood rotted in the first place because it was repeatedly exposed to water. ff you can keep water away from the wood by caulking a leaky gutter or redirecting a down spout, do that first.

In all cases, damaged wood must be thoroughly dry before you can make any repairs. Patching wet wood is like locking the fox in the hen house. It will trap moisture precisely where you don’t need it, creating a perfect environment for further rot.

Tools of The Trade

Here’s what you’ll need for your wood repair project: a chisel or screwdriver to dig out loose or rotten wood, a drill and 3/16-in. bit, a Phillips screwdriver for drywall screws, rubber gloves and a paint brush or squeeze bottle to apply the consolidant (a hair dye applicator from a beauty supply or drugstore works well; about $1.50 each). Use plastic disposable putty knives and mixing containers. You’ll need medium-grit sandpaper, and depending on the shape you want to make, a utility knife, a rasp, a plane or files.

Tricks of The Trade

Using these fillers and consolidants is like eating hard-shell tacos in rush-hour traffic. Making a mess is inevitable. So keep plenty of rags handy. Clean tools and wipe up spills right away. Once this stuff hardens, your only method of cleanup is chipping and sanding.

All of these products stick to wood like gum sticks to your shoe. But if you’re filling a deep hole (1/2 in. or more) drive a few drywall screws into the repair area, leaving the heads sticking out. Use screws that are long enough to go an inch or so into the wood and still be about 1/4 in. below the surface of the finished patch. This will give the repair an even better hold on the surrounding wood.

These fillers tend to droop when applied to vertical surfaces. So if you’re making a flat or square repair on an upright piece of wood, you may want to make a simple wooden form to hold the filler in place. To prevent the form from sticking to the patch, line it with a heavy plastic such as 4-mil polyethylene (available at home centers for about $4 a roll) or freezer bags.

Because these products harden so quickly, applying them is a bit like emergency surgery. Once the filler is mixed there’s no time to search for an extra putty knife or settle a dispute between your kids. So make sure your tools, rags and repair surfaces are ready to go before you start mixing.

Don’t mix more than a handful of filler at once. Several small batches will give you more time to work than if you mix one big batch. Clean or dispose of mixing containers between batches. Chunks of dried filler from the previous batch will mar the surface of the repair when you try to smooth it.


Don’t expect to get a perfect repair after one application of filler. Even if you’re making a simple, flat repair, you’ll probably have to sand the patch and apply more filler, perhaps two or three times.

The Pros And Cons of Wood Fillers


  1. Often cheaper and simpler than replacing wood.
  2. Easy to use. Mistakes are, for the most part, reversible.
  3. Can be planed, sanded, carved and painted to perfectly match any existing wood pattern.
  4. Designed to withstand outdoor conditions, but excellent for interior repairs too.


  1. These products will take stain, but not at the same rate as the surrounding wood. So expect color differences.
  2. When applied to wet or damp wood, these fillers will promote rot.
  3. These are toxic chemicals, so they present some dangers if not handled properly.

First Class Wood Repairs (Part 1)

Wood structures on the exteriors of dwellings can be repaired easily to prevent encroachment of rot and other decay. The most important part is to determine the cause of the wood damage and to insure preventative as well as maintenance measures are taken.

Make rotten, gouged, beat-up wood look as good as new – no special skills or tools required.

If this article sometimes sounds more like advertising than a report on wood repairs, it’s not because some wood filler manufacturer set up a Swiss bank account for us, but because we want you to know about these economical, versatile and downright useful wood-repair products.

We won’t just praise these products though. We’ll point out their drawbacks, explain how they work and show you how to use them. With a bit of time and money you’ll be able to make good-looking, long-lasting repairs to almost any non-structural wooden part of your home, inside or out.

The Basics

  • The beauty of these products is their versatility. Like wood, they can be cut, sanded, planed or carved to match any pattern, from simple, flat decking to the most intricate Victorian gingerbread. Unlike wood, however, they won’t rot, split or splinter.
  • Even ornate woodwork can be restored to its original shape.
  • Repairing wood (especially fancy stuff like the post shown on p. 81) is often much cheaper and easier than replacing it, so these products can save a lot of strain – on both your back and your wallet The porch post we show here, for example, was repaired in five hours for about $20. Replacing it would not only have taken a couple days of sweating and grunting, but would have cost over $100 for materials.

The Products

The most durable and effective fillers are two-part compounds you mix yourself just before using. Their sticky, peanut-butter consistency makes them difficult to work with, and most fillers harden very quickly (5 to 15 minutes), so you have to move fast. There are several one-part wood fillers on the market that are easier to work with and don’t require mixing. But the messy two-part fillers we list in the Buyers Guide are stronger, easier to shape, and well worth the extra trouble.

These fillers are most effective when used after applying a “consolidant,” a thin liquid that penetrates the repair area and dries, making the wood a stronger, harder, rot-resistant foundation for the filler.

Deciding how much filler to buy is an act of faith. Unless you’re willing and able to solve long calculus problems, the best you can do is look at the holes you want to fill, guesstimate how many fluid ounces it will take to fill them and add 20 percent for overfilling and mistakes.


Most of these products are toxic and flammable. They give off harmful vapors and generate heat as they dry, so don’t just read the manufacturer’s instructions, obey them. Plain and simple.

Experts use these wood fillers for perfect repairs – so can you.

Making structural repairs (restoring the strength of wood that helps hold your house up or together) is neither plain nor simple. Nor is this a task for amateurs. If the damage you want to repair is only superficial – a dent from a runaway skateboard, shallow rot, or a gouge from moving in the new fridge – the strength of the wood isn’t affected. But if the damage is deeper, you have to make some judgments, first about your own level of knowledge and then about the purpose of the wood and the damage to it.

  • If you have a basic understanding of home construction, you can probably distinguish between structural wood like porch posts or ceiling beams, and non-structural parts like doors, jambs, windowsills, casings, gingerbread or moldings.
  • If you have a good understanding of wood, you may be able to judge whether the damage is deep enough to affect strength. Our post, for instance, is structural. But it wasn’t so deeply rotted that we had to make a structural repair or replace it.
  • If you have even a sliver of doubt about your ability to make these judgments, get a professional opinion. If you don’t have any friends with expertise, call your local building inspector.